From Le Puy-en-Velay to Conques - Le Puy-En-Velay Tourist Office

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Le Puy-en-Velay

The starting point on the Way of Saint James

The Via Podiensis, leaving from Le Puy-en-Velay, is one of the 4 pilgrimage routes first recorded in the 12th century and leading to Santiago de Compostela in Spain along the Way of St James.

Le Puy-en-Velay

This is the number one cultural route in Europe and considered by many as the most beautiful section. It has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site, along with Le Puy-en-Velay Cathedral and the Hôtel Dieu, since 1998.

Spend a day in Le Puy-en-Velay to immerse yourself in the history of an exceptional site before setting out on the first 24 kilometres of your journey, leading you through the Monts du Velay to Saint-Privat d’Allier.

Credit C.Bousquet

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Saint-Privat-d'Allier

After Saint-Privat d’Allier, you come to the wonderful landscapes in the wild, steep-sided Allier Gorges. This is a land of salmon and whitewater sports. You make your way up the granite plateau of Margeride, before a dazzling view opens up from the Rochegude Chapel.

Rochegude Chapel in Saint-Privat d’Allier

This is a “mountain” stage with some steep climbs. It is definitely the most difficult stage between Le Puy and Conques. A visit to the village of Monistrol d’Allier and the troglodyte Madeleine chapel are not to be missed during your journey to Saugues.

Saint-Madeleine’s Chapel in Monistrol d’Allier

The Allier Gorges

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Saugues

In Saugues, you are welcomed by imposing wooden sculptures depicting pilgrims and the striking Beast of Gévaudan. Saugues is a medieval town that has kept a strong identity down the centuries due to a sometimes harsh climate and numerous invasions, before it was finally incorporated into Haute Loire. It also marks the beginning of the Margeride and Gévaudan plateaus, with some of the most untamed sections on the Way of St James, along with Aubrac.

The Beast of Gévaudan in Saugues

Here you can see the Keep and St Médard collegiate church, as well as the famous English Tower. On the way to the Domaine du Sauvage, the leaning Clauze Tower is a 15th century vestige near Grèzes. Last, you come to the Domaine du Sauvage, now owned by the Haute-Loire General Council. Two gîtes welcome pilgrims for an unforgettable stay at the heart of the Margeride region. Here there is an inn run by farmers and serving meals made from local ingredients in season.

Clauze Tower in Grèzes

The Domaine du Sauvage, the last stage in Haute-Loire

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Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole

In the land of the Beast of Gévaudan, you arrive in Lozère after crossing the Margeride plateau. The town of Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole was a stronghold of the barony of Apcher and grew up around the 12th century castle. In 1764, Saint-Alban castle was one of the rallying points for organising the hunts for the Beast of Gévaudan.

In this last stage before arriving in Aubrac, you go through a land of streams and mountain plants. Soon you arrive in Les Estrets, a famous landmark, where you can visit the commandery of the Order of Hospitallers. Then there are 6.5 km to go before reaching Aumont-Aubrac and its famous priory, which was founded in around 1000 A.D.

Credit Gilles Reboisson

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Aumont-Aubrac

The town of Aumont-Aubrac developed on the Via Agrippa and around the 11th century priory. On the way to Nasbinals, this is the most “populous” stage between Le Puy-en-Velay and Conques. Aumont-Aubrac is famous for its cattle market and as the gateway for pilgrims to the vast Aubrac plateau. It is known as a rough, cold and isolated spot.

The Aubrac plateau consists of vast cattle-grazing lands divided by low stone walls. In season, the herds leave the valley to go up to the pastureland. Today the Aubrac plateau belongs to cattle, to cows and to the famous Aubrac breed. There are some 50,000 cows in the 109 communes…

Credit – Aumont Tourist Office

The villages are a treat for hikers in Aubrac, including La Chaze de Peyre, the crossroads for a large number of signposted trails through pine forests and green pastures. You will also go through Malbouzon, a former priorship depending on Sainte Foy de Conques, with the remains of a 12th century church. To enjoy a refreshing break before Nasbinals, pay a quick visit to the Deroc waterfall and Lake Salhiens…

Credit – Aumont Tourist Office

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Nasbinals

Nasbinals appears at last, with its beautiful and robust Romanesque church dating from the 11th century. This is the starting point for the Aveyron department and for the route to Saint-Chély d’Aubrac.

The 17 km section is one of the seven parts on the Puy-en-Velay trail (the Via Podiensis) that are listed as a World Heritage site by UNESCO. This is probably the most striking section in terms of landscapes and diversity. You cross the undulating Aubrac plateau with its vast pasture lands, often walk alongside drailles (drovers’ roads), once used to take cattle to pasture and providing a very clear view. Then you gradually go down into the Boralde and the Lot valleys through the woods, following the beds of little streams or going round the hillsides.

Aubrac is always a surprise for visitors! Yet the village had a sad reputation. A place inspiring horror and vast solitude, cold and rough, a land of wolves and bandits… But the village is at the heart of the Aubrac plateau, with truly breathtakingly beautiful landscapes! Here you can see the hospice dating from 1120 with its church, the convent buildings that were destroyed during the French Revolution, the hospital where exhausted pilgrims would be welcomed, the English Tower built in the 14th century to fend off attacks and the old Dômerie with its famous “bell for the lost”, since it helped pilgrims find their way.

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Saint-Chély-d'Aubrac

From Saint-Chély d’Aubrac, with the old Dômerie (monastery) and the Calvary on the old bridge, you begin the descent from the High Plateau running down gently into the Lot Valley. You leave Saint-Chély d’Aubrac across the Pilgrims Bridge, once the only way to cross the River Boralde and keep your feet dry.

After going through L’Estrade, you head for Saint-Côme d’Olt with its little medieval streets. It has the “most beautiful village in France” label and has preserved its character over time. While the outer areas have been built up, the town centre still takes visitors back in time with picturesque streets and a medieval castle. The original twisted church spire presides over the centre of the village. You can see it quite clearly as you come down from Aubrac or along the Lot Valley.

The village of Saint-Côme d’Olt

There are still 7 km to go before you arrive in Espalion, the “first smile of the south of France”. This is the economic heart of Haut Rouergue and something of a symbol for the gentle way of life. Here you can visit Saint John’s Church, the Penitents chapel, the diving suit museum, the Museum of Popular Art and Traditions, the Rouergue Museum, the old palace and the Old Bridge.

This is the oldest bridge across the powerful River Lot in the Rouergue region. It took on great importance because of the Way of St James pilgrimage and for the movement of goods and people between the Massif Central and Rouergue. The Gothic work has been redesigned several times. It originally had three towers with a guard post, like Valentré bridge in Cahors.

Espalion – Bridge and Old Palace – Hautes Terres d’Aveyron Tourist Office

The building is listed as a historic monument and as a UNESCO World Heritage site, as part of the Way of St James in France.

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Espalion

You leave Espalion for Golinhac by walking up Mount Rouergate with some magnificent views over the Lot Valley and Aubrac. After a little over ten kilometres, you catch a glimpse of Estaing. The town is rated as “one of the most beautiful villages in France” with its Gothic bridge over the River Lot, the Hospitalité St Jacques community and the 15th-century Saint Fleuret church.

Estaing credit C.Bousquet

This part of the Lot Valley was an easy communications route taken by thousands of pilgrims. The Romanesque buildings along the way and the Espalion and Estaing bridges bear witness to it. The route between Saint-Côme d’Olt and Estaing is considered one of the seven most remarkable natural heritage sites along the Way of St James between Le Puy-en-Velay and Saint-Jean de Port.

Golinhac, on the River Lot, appears at the end of the journey. The town church is dedicated to Saint Martin. The Romanesque foundations of a Benedictine priory, which depended on Conques Abbey in the 12th century, can be still be seen today.

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Golinhac

Conques, the high point of your trip, is 20 km from Golinhac!

But first, you should miss out on a visit to Espeyrac, a town built like an amphitheatre. Only one of the town’s two castles is still standing today, the castle of the lords of Espeyrac, consisting of a main building and a turret. The other castle, belonging to the Duke of Arpajon, the lord of Séverac, was where the church stands today. Then it’s time to head for Senergues, with its 5 churches and 4 castles.

The rich cultural heritage of the town includes Saint Martin’s Church, Sénergues Castle, the Montarnal Tower and the ruins of the castle keep.

Sénergues Castle – Credit R. Combal

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Conques

Since it was founded, Conques Abbey has always welcomed pilgrims from all over Christian Europe, who came to venerate the relics of Saint Foy (Saint Faith). The Book of Miracles bears witness to this popular fervour.

The ranks of worshippers were gradually expanded from the 11th century by pilgrims travelling to Santiago de Compostella in Galicia. They were following the route from Le Puy-en-Velay (Via Podiensis), one of the four main paths along the Way of St James.

Conques – Crédit R.Combal

Conques Chevet Abbatiale – Crédit G.Mazars

The Pilgrim’s Guide, a 12th-century Latin manuscript, mentions the major stage of Conques and its holy benefactress: “the very precious body of the blessed Foy, virgin and martyr, was buried with honour by the Christians in a valley known to local people as Conques; on this site a fine basilica was built where, for the glory of God, still today the rule of Saint Benedict is followed with great care; many graces are granted to both the healthy and the sick; in front of the doors of the basilica an excellent source runs with qualities too wonderful to be described. Her saint’s day is on 6 October”.

Conques – Credit FAHPA

Today, the enthusiasm born over one thousand years ago has not fallen off, far from it. Traditional pilgrims have been joined by the hikers of modern times. More and more people follow this cultural trail for a wide range of reasons. It is a unique opportunity for encounters and for exploring an exceptional architectural and artistic heritage.

The Saint-Foy abbey church in Conques and the medieval bridge over the River Dourdou have been listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites since 1998.

Pilgrims Bridge – Credit R. Combal

Thanks to the Conques-Marcillac Tourist Office